Finding family in Xai Xai: An exchange of gifts and bond with the San

My name is Tessa Barlin. When I was 11 years old, my parents took me to the San Rock Art museum in the Drakensberg - an area that forms the highest mountain range in South Africa. The Drakensberg mountains are home to a large range of historic San rock art. Although the San were wiped out by European and African settlers in South Africa.

Their spirit lives on in the mountains. It was there that I became passionate about the San culture. I would dedicate the rest of my life to wanting to meet some of the last remaining San people in Southern Africa, and work towards preserving their culture

And that's why receiving a grant from the National Geographic Society to make a film about the San of Botswana was one of the biggest dreams come true for me. 

I knew my time with the San would be special, but I didn’t realize how truly life-changing it would be. On the first day of meeting our group of people from the community, I was approached by an elderly lady. She pointed to herself and said, "Mama Tinqe". I then said, "Tessa".

I realised that Mama Tinqe was giving me her name! Our translator told that "from now on, everyone will refer to you as Tinqe". It was a huge honour. I felt so proud and humbled to be trusted enough to be adopted by a San grandmother - on the very first day of meeting her. Eventually, our translator came up to us and explained to me what was happening. In the Juxhuase tribe, it is customary for a grandparent to pass on their name to a grandchild. 

A few days later, we were all gathered around the fire, and the group was showing us their traditional healing ritual. I walked over to Mama Tinqe to take a photo with her, and unexpectedly, she gave me a beaded headband that she had been wearing. Our translator explained to me that it was a gift she was giving me and that it was a huge honor. 

Something that represented a part of me. Instinctually, I took off my necklace - it is a necklace that my aunt had bought for me about 4 years ago and that I had been wearing every day since - and I put my necklace around Mama Tinqe's neck. It was a hugely significant necklace.

But I also believe that giving my necklace to Mama Tinqe was a symbol of completing my journey. I had held the San culture in my heart for most of my life, and now I was leaving a piece of my heart with them, in Botswana. I wore my beaded headband for the rest of our time together, and Mama Tinqe wore her necklace. It brought me so much joy to see that. The experience will live in my heart forever.